The Kalalau Permit, and the Art of Patience
Eleven miles, five river crossings, and one of the hardest permits to draw in the United States. A practical guide to getting on the trail.
The Kalalau Trail is, by most reasonable measures, the most beautiful coastal hike in the United States. It is also one of the most regulated, and for good reason — the Na Pali cliffs do not forgive carelessness.
## Getting the permit
Reservations open ninety days in advance at 7:00 a.m. Hawaii Standard Time and are gone, on summer dates, in under a minute. The trick is not strategy. It is calendar discipline.
Set two alarms. Be logged in to the Hawaii State Parks reservation system fifteen minutes early. Have your credit card in the browser. Pick a midweek date in May or October — the weather is good, the crowds are thinner, and the permits move slightly slower.
## What the trail actually asks
Eleven miles each way, five river crossings, sustained exposure on the Crawler's Ledge section above the surf, and a final descent into Kalalau Beach that ends at a waterfall the color of weak tea. Most parties take two and a half to three days.
## What to bring
A real pack with a hip belt. A pair of hiking sandals for the river crossings (do not try to keep your boots dry — you will fail). A water filter. A bear canister? No — but a rat-proof Ursack for camp food, yes.
And a willingness to wait, sometimes a full season, for the trail to say yes.